VaporWarez are the former OEM of VaporDocs, what this means is that VaporWarez was the original equipment manufacturers of the VaporDocs. Since then, VaporWarez has come out with their own upgraded vaporizer the all new VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer.
The VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer is now being offered by GotVape.com. This box style vaporizer is the first of it's kind to earn a spot at GotVape.com.
Featuring a ground glass whip , this allows the VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer to truly be hands free, opposed to having to hold the whip to the heating element (included).
The VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer features a ceramic heating element, this is tremendously healthier then it's predecessor and its competitors like the Vapor Brothers Vaporizer. Those units all contain a metal heating element. Long since being realized in the Vaporizer Gun market, where a ceramic element is mandatory.
The box style vaporizers have been hurting peoples health with these cheaper elements that fail constantly. The VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer has surpassed the competition with this key feature
VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer vs. The Vapor Brothers Vaporizer
The ease of use as compared to the Vapor Brothers Vaporizer is immense. While you need to hold your whip to the heating element with the Vapor Brothers Vaporizer, the new and improved VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer allows you to use the ground glass fitting to maintain contact with the ceramic heating element.
Now backed with a 5 year manufacturers warranty on the engine, the VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer has one of the most competitive warranties on the market. The new ceramic element has proven to be very reliable, even under the most stressful testing.
VaporWarez VaporCannon 4G Hands Free Vaporizer Instructions
Turn the knob all the way up and let the warm up for 3-10 minutes. Turn back about 1/8 to ¼ turn depending on personal preference. Be sure to experiment with different settings and varying draw velocities.
Grind up material and suck up into the tip of the glass handpiece. Recommended load is 1/3 or less of the bowl volume(from screen to tip) lightly packed down. The material can be packed down using the -bt- end of the poker, a pen, or a pencil. Over-packing reduces airflow and results in overcooked or burned bowls.
Check the iron for a dim red glow. If iron is bright orange turn off for 10 seconds and reset near maximum until glow dims to a dull red. Touch the pyrex tip to the glass slipper covering the iron, hold it there and take a continuous steady toke releasing the pyrex tip from the element right before you are done in order to clear the tube. If you draw too slow and the iron is too hot, you may catch the material on fire. In this case blow out immediately and repack with fresh material.
After taking a hit, check the material . If it is blackened, you should turn the knob down a little or draw faster. If you do not get a hit, you should turn the temperature up a little or draw slower. At first it may not feel like you are getting a hit because it is a cool clear Minerals mist that dissipates quickly and is not seen unless you blow against a light source.
Some people prefer a higher setting for a more full-bodied, slightly smoky hit. After a few tokes you will notice your exhaust decreasing to a thin blue exhaust indicating that the material is exhausted of its essential Minerals. Experiment with taking the material to different colors and consistencies to discover what kind of "buzz" you prefer.
Expel material by blowing whip into a bottle, can, or plastic container. If some material remains in the tip it may not be thoroughly cooked. Moist material does not seem to work as efficiently, although it can work just fine. Now that you understand vaporization better and can consistently get a good hit there are some finer points to consider. There are two good ways to increase efficiency of the vaporizer.
The first, is to stir the bowl between hits with the included poker being careful not to poke through the screen. To more evenly cook the bowl, you can stir the material and change which of it is receiving the hot air first. Second, you can rotate the glass bowl around its long(symmetrical) axis while you are taking a hit.
This is helpful because heat rises and so the hot air heats the top edge of the bowl more than the bottom edge of the bowl. During rotation, you slowly change the instantaneous top of the bowl, thereby vaporizing the bowl more evenly. Rotating the bowl too fast can require drawing in slower in order to maximize your hit. Once again, experiment to find the way that works most efficiently for you.
Also, as you inhale you draw heat off of the vaporizer and cool it down slightly. This means that there is a slight refractory period between hits while the vaporizer heats back up. Another side affect of this is that the iron is hotter at the beginning of a hit than at the end. If you really wanted to maximize the efficiency of your hit, you will learn to draw faster towards the beginning of the hit and slowly decrease the speed with which you inhale as the vaporizer cools. This technique is not something which can be mastered immediately.
Try to experiment with other techniques like running the vapor through water or over ice. For portability we recommend a deep cycle 12-volt and a power converter. Other factors that can hold influence are the moisture content of the material, the size of the ground up material(the smaller the better), and the length of the glass bowl. Temperature of unit may vary from time to time due to such factors as heavy use, leaving it on longer, and using extension cords.
After the material has been vaporized, you can collect all of this leftover "Duff" into a container. This "Duff", although missing almost all of its Minerals, still contains a small percentage. If one were motivated enough, there are a multitude of methods of extraction to concentrate the remaining Minerals. The variety and complicity of these techniques do not allow any details here, although the internet is a great resource for such information.
Occasionally the glass, screen, and tubing will need to be cleaned depending on the frequency of use. The glass can be pulled apart from the tubing and the screen can be removed by poking it through. To unclog the screen just put a lighter to it to burn off all of the resin. Getting the screen back into the glass can be tricky but is facilitated by working at it from both sides with a coat hanger and a pen or a poker.
There is no reason not to reuse the screen but if it is for some reason lost, replace it with a very fine gauge screen. This is in contrast to the coarse screen inside the iron cover that keeps material from falling into the heat source.
The tubing and glass can be cleaned by running hot water through them from the mouthpiece down. If buildup occurs, steep hand-piece in alcohol overnight. The tubing can be replaced at most hardware stores; it is clear vinyl tubing sized 1/4" inner diameter and 3/8" outer diameter although any other size which make an airtight seal with the glass will work.